S/V Chasing Summer: Getting Rid of Large Windows

Recently, on the Spencer website some one posted asking if anyone has reduced the size of the large windows and how they accomplished this. I reduced mine and am installing 7x15 New Found Metal.

Since I'm rebuilding essentially from a bare hull it was quite easy for me but the process would be virtually the same.

After measuring to determine how much material would be needed I did a layup 2oz mat / 10oz roving / 2oz mat. Make sure you do this lay-up on peel ply or formica top, which has been well waxed. I then cut my new sheet into 6 pieces with two being longer because of the odd curve of the after-most windows. I lined up and secured the panels on the outside of the hull and ran small diameter screws through the new panel overlap into the cabin side. If you have some one helping you this step is not necessary. Then on the inside I traced with fine magic marker. Taking a masonry blade in my 4-1/2" grinder I rough cut out each panel. I then fit, sanded, fit, sanded, fit (using my 4-1/2" grinder) each panel to it's respective window hole.

Violet loves helping me with the boat. She climbs the steep 12 step ladder and likes laying on deck. She's a great boat dog.

Next, on the inside of both cabin side and window plug, I taper ground so the edge I left was about 1/16" thick. It's easy to see the taper as you expose the layers of roving that the factory used. Just keep the lines straight and consistant. The thinner the better but it has to be thick enough to hold mount screws and work with it without breaking. Thin means less grinding out the crack on the other side. (well get to that) Holding each panel in place with sheetmetal screws is quite a challange. (hope you're not prone to swearing) Put the screws in from the outside and let the head act to line up the two surfaces. This also holds the panels on the proper curve.

Here you can see the screws I used to hold the panel in place. I also used tape to get me started but in the end the screws did all the work. I also had rubber flashing over the plug but only to keep out the rain during the winter.

On the inside, before the wind blows the whole thing away, lay down a 3" ribbon of 2oz mat. After it's cured, the next day, remove the screws.
Next, I ground the intire inside cabin wall surface to the first layer roving. I also ground a few inches under the deck curve. This will make that corner stiffer. The material I used was 50 inch wide 2oz mat and 40 inch wide 10oz roving. I layed out all my pieces first and layed them up so I both moved along but built up before the cure. I'll explain. Three layers of mat/roving/mat. 1st a 50 piece of mat, 2nd a 40 piece of roving, 3rd another 50 peice of mat next to the first 50 inch piece. Now I have 100 inches of mat. 4th on mine I had 20 inches left over so I now lay 20 inches of mat on top of the roving where I started. Now I have 20 inches that are done to 3 layers. 5th lay the second 40 inch piece of roving allowing the frayed ends to overlap. 6th lay the end 20 inches of the first layer followed my the 2nd and 3rd sections of roving, 7th lay on the remaining top layers of mat.
Confused yet? It's not that hard if you lay it out on paper first, AND lay out your peices in the right order and the right orientation.
NOTE: USE A COOL MIX ON YOUR HARDENER. Normally I use 15cc/quart. For this project I used 10cc/quart. This give you a longer working time. Have a helper to hold corners. Another hint: Use a paint roller to wet out your glass, also it will extract most of the bubbles, but have a 1inch glass roller ready. Lightly wet the back of each peice before hanging it up to saturate with the paint roller.
Get a plastic paint tray so you can work with about 2 quarts at a time.
LOTS OF LATEX GLOVES

Next: on the outside of the cabin taper grind to remove any crack between the cabin and the new plug. You want a 100% joint and lay in alternating layers of mat and roving. After everything is cured begin sanding the outside. I DID NOT do any grinding of the peice between the windows as I will use this for a level reference when I start finish sanding.
I also plan to fabricate oak sleeves for the new portlites to mount into this way I'm not just squeezing on insulation but solid wood. My cabin walls are almost 2 inches thick but the portlite will be only 1 layer of 3/4" where the light sets and additional layers around the window to bring it to finish thickness. I'm using oak because that's what my interior is. It's solid, strong and takes resin well.

Hope this is helpful. If you have any questions please contact me directly through my blog. I'm not finished with mine so I don't have a full set of pictures yet.