Last post of 2012

Well, another year has come and gone ... I've gotten a lot of work accomplished on her this years.
Currently I'm back to making saftey rail stantion bases.  I'm making 24 of them for the deck.  Don't need that many but since I have the steel and I'm doing it anyway I thought I'd make some extra.
I've also getting my spare engine and transmission ready to sell.
It doesn't stay warm for many hours during the day so I don't get a lot of work done in the winter months.
See you all next year.

Nav center bulkhead

Today I glassed in the last remaining bulkhead.  It separates the navigation center and the aft/stbd quarter, which instead of a berth I've designated my workshop.  I widened the nav center to chart width, which reduced the berth area.  Also, I don't plan on carrying that many crew and I'd rather have a workshop than a spare berth.
It look great and gives definition.  Tomorrow I'll insulate the area.
The next phase I'll need to buy another sheet of 3/4" plywood for starting the lower dividers of the stbd settee / water tank; and the drawer / work top of the nav center.

Just an Update

Five of the six tank covers are finished and installed.  I've been thinking about buying diesel fuel 5 gallons at a time so it doesn't cost so much all at once to fill the approx 60 gallon tank.  Also, this way I can mark a dip stick every time I pore in another 5 gallons.  No electronic tank levels ... electronics can malfuntion.

Today I finished glassing in the new cockpit drain system.  All that's left is some cosmetic work before I start painting the topsides.  During this process I replaced the hose that connect the rudder packing box to the fiberglass hull fitting.

Next major fiberglass project is to glass reinforce the hull/deck joint with 5 lays of mat and cloth.

Tank Cover Plates

I love projects.  If you know me at all you know I have several project going at one time.  I made the cover plate for the fwd sanitary tank months ago.  The last few days I've been working on the aft sanitary tank cover plate.  After installing it I started working on the diesel and water tanks cover plates.

 

Sorry it's out of focus ... digital camera's aren't perfect .... or maybe I moved it ... oops

Drain outlet is finally finished

Well after .... several days .... I've finished glassing in the cockpit outlet port.  Six layers alternating 2 oz mat and 10 oz roving.  WOW, what a job ... had to all be done squeezing underneath the cockpit and then getting out without getting into the wet resin.  I thought that part was a success until I went to brush my hair.  I wasn't wearing a cap.  Long story short my hair is very short now.  Enough said.
Well, it's Friday nite, cold and rainey outside, no money ..... so, I guess it's a movie nite.
Tomorrow I start glassing the drain tubes to the cockpit corners.

Ya, it's as small an area as it appears.

Drain Tube Installed

The first of two cockpit drain tubes finally has a new home.  I'm tickled at how it went.  A picture is worth a 1000 words.
So ....

 

 

(The hole in the lower right corner is the 1-1/2" overboard discharge thru-hull.)

 

Cockpit Drain Tube

For months I've been going over different ways to lay up the fiberglass tubes for the cockpit drains.  My original thought was to use the plastic tube from the center if a roll of window tint.  Cut the tube on an angle and tape the angles together at one end to form an elbow .... but how do I get the tube out once I'm finished?  I could pry out the elbow peices but the main tube would take hydraulic pressure.  The other day I came up with what I think is brilliant.  Why not use a thin, cardboard mailer tube from Staples?  So... I bought two of them.  Again, I cut 5 degree angles of the end of the tube and, using Elmer's glue, glued the angles together to form the elbow.  Next I applyed 3 coats of a release agent on the tube.
Yesterday I layed up the first 3 layers of fiberglass.  How come in actuality everything is more difficult then when you go over it in your mind?  Anyway, after a lot of mess I finally got 3 layers on.
Today, after my class I teach, I cleaned up the first layup and sanded it down for the second 3 layers of fiberglass.  Today when much smoother than yesterday.

Here's what I came up with.

 

 

Tomorrow, after it's cured, I'll clean up and trim the ends and fit in place for the port side cockpit drain.

 

Cockpit Drains & Steering

The last week or so I've been working moving the steering yoke and pulleys so I have room to  put in the cockpit drain system.  You don't just move a steering system down.  Everything is on an angle.  When you move the yoke down the rudder post you not only move it down but you move it forwad as well.  This in turn moves the port and starboard pulleys down closer to the hull, but the final pulley, which goes up to the steering wheel sprocket must remain in the same place.  Also, the port return cable must clear the yoke.  (don't worry, once I get the drain system installed and the steering back in I'll take pictures.  Remember a picture is worth 1000 words.  I think sometimes more.
So, a couple months ago I made the thru-hull fiberglass cone which the drains will exit through.  Yesterday I cut the hole in the hull and today I fitted and glassed the cone in place.

The picture is of the two old cockpit drain holes.  One is completely glassed over over whille the other became the overboard discharge thru-hull which bilges and all tanks will pump through.  There will be only 3 holes in the boat below the water line.  Seawater in for both the engine and saltwater usage, overboard discharge.  Both these have Groco  BV series ball valves.  Hole #3 is the totally, very heavily glassed cockpit drain piping.

IT'S ALIVE

OFFICIALLY

 

September 25, 2012 after over 3 years of being dormant my Perkins 4-107 came back to life.

 

..... check it out .....

 

Isn't that the coolest engine you ever heard?

Under the cabin aft deck

Before I can glass in the bulhead between the navigation station and the work shop, which used to be the stbd aft berth, I need to finish stripping out the old wood and glass in new support beams and deck support between them in the aft section of the boat between the cabin and the cockpit.  I had put the first heavy beam, which supports the aft edge of the cabin top, several months ago but had not removed any more old wood.  The last few days I've ground out all the rotted, termite infested plywood and gotten ready to put in new wood.  It's been quite hot so I only worked in the morning and evening.  I got #2 beam laminated and ready to install and prepped the plywood sheet between #1 & #2 beams.  This evening glassed in the plywood sheet.  Once I put in the #2 beam I can insulate the plywood sheet.  Every piece of insulation I install makes the boat that more temperature stable.  If I can keep the heat of the sun out in the summer or keep the warm in in the winter the more comfortable the boat will be for a life time of cruising.

The wide beam in the upper left corner is a main beam at the end of the cabin and under the hatch.
The light color wood is new.  I'm prep-ing the lighter section just aft of the new wood.  It has to have the old plywood ground out, the fiberglass sanded, then I'll glass in a new piece of plywood and another beam.  I've got two more beams to make and install.  The aft bulkhead is just fwd of the steering cables and the cockpit.
This picture is taken standing as low as I can get in the bilge looking up and aft.

Two more bulkheads

Friday I fit in the bulkhead to seperate what was going to be between the starboard quarter berth and the navigation center.  After measuring I've shortened up the quarter berth into a work shop.  Don't know where that 4th crew member will sleep.  Oh well, with one person always on watch I'll only ever need 3 berths.

Yesterday, with a little help from a friend, wow, some one should write a song with that title, I glassed over the Starboard side port light plugs, which I set in place last year.  Remember, last February I glassed over the Port side before I put in the galley bulkheads.

Today after a very good, 0730am church sevice I spent most of the rest of the day fitting in the bulkhead between the navigation center and the starboard settee.  Tomorrow I'll glass in that bulkhead as I need to access the after area with overhead beams before I glass that one in place.  ...  That's my next project: finishing up the overhead beams under the after deck, behind the ladder.  I have 4  beams to glue up and fit in place.  Then, put plywood against the hull because of the large deck area.

Perkins 4-107 engine

The last few days I've been working on the dining area just fwd of the galley.  I ran out of wood.

A few days ago the parts came for the rebuild of my engine, which I've had for 3 years.  I had the engine a year before I had the boat.  Of course I already know which boat I wanted I just hadn't been able to buy it yet.

Thanks to Stewart Marine in Seattle, WA for all the original Perkins parts.

This picture's for you, Allen.  Sorry, I didn't take that many pictures during the rebuild but I do have another engine (short block) that I can take pictures of.

Today I start assembly from a clean, bare block. With printed manual close at hand.

Couple days later ....

I know, it's upside down, but that's how I've been working getting the bottom end of the engine back together.  New sleeves, pistons, crank & rod bushing.  Three years after I got this engine for free I'm getting it back together again.  After closing up the bottom end with the oil pan I just had to take a picture.

 

Aug 21,2012 ... doesn't she look pretty?

 



Starter on this side

Still has the old head on it.  Mine hasn't been shipped back yet and I needed the lifting eyes to get the engine of the stand so I could start building the rear plate, flywheel and starter.

Fuel injector pump and oil filter/cooler hoses on this side

Now that's a big flywheel .... yep ... I estimate about 30 lbs.

Dinning Area

These really hot days I've been working on grinding, glassing in bulkheads, and insulating so I can make more progress on the dinning area.  Recall ... the whole boat above the waterline will be insulated with 1-1/2" DOW Polystrene Blueboard glued in place with 3M adhesive 78 especially designed for adhering Blueboard to fiberglass and other non-porous plastics.
Yesterday and today I've been re-sawing 3/4" White Oak for the interior stripping.  It gets a dado edge for overelapping the boards a tiny bit.

Well, it's the next day ... I put in all the Oak strips and fit in the seat boards.

Pretty cosy if I do say so myself

 Half way through re-sawing #4 of my boards the blade broke on my bandsaw so I TIG welded it back together so I could finish #4 and finish 5 & 6.  I'll need a new blade, as I think it stretch along one side when it fatigued and broke, but that got me through for today.

another bulkhead

After having finished the work under the fwd end of the bunk and the trim on the bunk it was time to put in the stbd side fwd hatch protector bulkhead.  I've also finished the trim on my berth.

I have a new little friend.  My neighbor's cat caught a baby mouse.  I think only 7-10 days old.  I have him in one of the dry storage contains I'll use on the boat.  His currently in my motorhome next to the computer.  He loves just laying on a piece of felt and watching me.  He's the cutest thing ever.  Not sure if I'll return him to the wild or not.  He's never really known it and they have so many natural enemies out there.  Between cats and rats and elephants .... oh, that from the unicorn song. .... and mouse traps, and hawks they don't stand much of a chance.  ....  I think I'll keep him safe.

More work in the Galley

I've finished the water tank and the cabinet frame for the galley.  Now I have to line the stove area with heat resistant tiles.  First I'll line it with Hardyboard.  Sorry, I didn't take a picture of just the tile.



The tile is finished and the stove is set in place.  I have to take it out once more to put in the heat exchanger for hot water.

I've finished the trim, again, no picture, on the water tank and the port cabinet.

Well ... for all those following the re-building of Chasing Summer, I have an update for you.
First off, today was my last day of P/T employment so now I can spend all my days, while the daylight hours are long, working on the boat.  Maybe in the fall when the days shorten I'll get winter employment.  It depends on how the funds hold out.

I've been concentrating the galley for the past few weeks.  Ya, I know, I jump around.  I have a short attention span ... OK.

At one time I had the galley stove in but because after sliding it in I realized I hadn't left enough clearance for air circulation.  Also, in moving the divider over 2 inches it was easier to interface with the front of the fore/aft cabinet infront of the water tank.  ... I've got a general layout in my head but it also kind of design and build as I go.  I've only torn out and moved two things so far.  I don't think that to bad.

So ... here's a picture of my bunk with a coat of paint on it.  I haven't finished the top trim edge yet.

... and the galley with the insulation board in place.  The whole boat will be insulated with 1-1/2 polystyrene blue board.



Port side water tank finished

Well, not quite.  I still have to cut the hole and weld up the plate for the pipes.  But the tank itself is finished.
Started working on the dry stores schelves in the galley on the aft bulkhead.  No, sorry, no pictures yet.  But here are a couple of the water tank.

June update

Well ... the drawers were a real challange but I finished the 4 in the 'Skipper's Stateroom'.  (that means the berth you can stand up next to vs the crew berths)
I've been working a lot of hours and teaching traffic school on weekends so projects have been going slowly.  Here are pictures of the drawers.  If you look at picture 4 you can see that neither the drawer or the back are square.  This is what presented the problem.  I ended up had cutting the finger joints on the back panel with my new Japanese Saw.  You can't see it in this picture but I've put part of the finsish trip on the top edge of the berth side.  I'll add a top view picture tomorrow.

Scroll past the pictures and I'll tell you what I've been working on this week.

Hello again .... All week I've been preparing to glass in the Port water tank.  Lots of prep before the first peice of cloth ever gets wet.  I'd like to get the sides finished this weekend.  I can glass on the lid anytime because I can grind to get a good joint.

Second Try's a Charm

Couple weeks ago I told you I built a jig to make box joints for drawers.  Interestingly these drawers are not square but on a 15 degree angle with the bow of the boat.  My first attempt didn't work very well.  Actually I was probably only a couple thousands off but accumulated over 13 pins that makes the joint not fit.
Second try:  I researched many different kinds of jigs and it dawned on my that to cut both the sides and ends from left to right I needed a jig, which I didn't have to re-adjust between cuts.  I needed a two sided, 15 degree on both sides jig.  So ... that's what I made and my first try in, this time cheap wood, came out perfect.

I re-cut the pins on the on the drawer sided that I first cut.  Fortunately I had left extra material and didn't have to waste the sides.  The fronts I thought I wasted I can use for the sides of the next set I'm making tomorrow.
Here's what the drawers look like in place.  Remember, they are not glued together yet and the trim face in not installed.

I'm tickled with the way they are turning out.  The next challange will be the drawer back.  Not only is it 15 degrees to the sides but 45 degrees to the hull.  I'll have make a new jig so I can cut both on a 15 degree front to back with the saw but the blade will be tilted over to 45 degrees.  I've got it worked out in my mind.  ... and don't worry, I'll use pine for my sample work.  You learn to do that really fast when you burn through $5/bdft white oak.

May Update ... what a great weekend

First, I know I've been promising you pictures of my work area, I'm not quite sure you can call it a shop because even though it's under a frame and tarp I think of a shop inside a building.  Since I've been planing wood I now have a very soft wood chip floor.  I'm slowly gathering tools that I wish I had for years but didn't have the proper place for them.  The shame is that once I'm done with the boat I'll no longer need all my toys I've collected.

Box Joints

Making the drawer for the fwd berthing.  I made a jig to cut finger joints but I'm having trouble getting the sides to line up with the sides.  The pictures are for the benefit of the Woodworking forum.

Top view of the jig on the saw

Side view ... the drawers are not square but on a 15 degree angle.  I cut many samples to make sure the set-up was just right.

Fingers on the side pieces ... as you can see the line up correctly ... don't want to damage them by hammering them home, but they start together fine.

This a side and the end .... as you can see the pins don't line up.

Getting Rid of Large Windows

Recently, on the Spencer website some one posted asking if anyone has reduced the size of the large windows and how they accomplished this.  I reduced mine and am installing 7x15 New Found Metal.

Since I'm rebuilding essentially from a bare hull it was quite easy for me but the process would be virtually the same.

After measuring to determine how much material would be needed I did a layup 2oz mat / 10oz roving / 2oz mat.  Make sure you do this lay-up on peel ply or formica top, which has been well waxed.  I then cut my new sheet into 6 pieces with two being longer because of the odd curve of the after-most windows.  I lined up and secured the panels on the outside of the hull and ran small diameter screws through the new panel overlap into the cabin side.  If you have some one helping you this step is not necessary.  Then on the inside I traced with fine magic marker.  Taking a masonry blade in my 4-1/2" grinder I rough cut out each panel.  I then fit, sanded, fit, sanded, fit (using my 4-1/2" grinder) each panel to it's respective window hole.

Violet loves helping me with the boat. She climbs the steep 12 step ladder and likes laying on deck. She's a great boat dog.

Next, on the inside of both cabin side and window plug, I taper ground so the edge I left was about 1/16" thick.  It's easy to see the taper as you expose the layers of roving that the factory used.  Just keep the lines straight and consistant.  The thinner the better but it has to be thick enough to hold mount screws and work with it without breaking.  Thin means less grinding out the crack on the other side.  (well get to that)  Holding each panel in place with sheetmetal screws is quite a challange.  (hope you're not prone to swearing) Put the screws in from the outside and let the head act to line up the two surfaces.  This also holds the panels on the proper curve.

Here you can see the screws I used to hold the panel in place. I also used tape to get me started but in the end the screws did all the work. I also had rubber flashing over the plug but only to keep out the rain during the winter.

On the inside, before the wind blows the whole thing away, lay down a 3" ribbon of 2oz mat.  After it's cured, the next day, remove the screws.
Next, I ground the intire inside cabin wall surface to the first layer roving.  I also ground a few inches under the deck curve.  This will make that corner stiffer.  The material I used was 50 inch wide 2oz mat and 40 inch wide 10oz roving.  I layed out all my pieces first and layed them up so I both moved along but built up before the cure.  I'll explain.  Three layers of mat/roving/mat.  1st a 50 piece of mat, 2nd a 40 piece of roving, 3rd another 50 peice of mat next to the first 50 inch piece.  Now I have 100 inches of mat.  4th on mine I had 20 inches left over so I now lay 20 inches of mat on top of the roving where I started.  Now I have 20 inches that are done to 3 layers.  5th lay the second 40 inch piece of roving allowing the frayed ends to overlap.  6th lay the end 20 inches of the first layer followed my the 2nd and 3rd sections of roving,  7th lay on the remaining top layers of mat.
Confused yet?  It's not that hard if you lay it out on paper first, AND lay out your peices in the right order and the right orientation.
NOTE: USE A COOL MIX ON YOUR HARDENER.  Normally I use 15cc/quart.  For this project I used 10cc/quart.  This give you a longer working time.  Have a helper to hold corners.  Another hint:  Use a paint roller to wet out your glass, also it will extract most of the bubbles, but have a 1inch glass roller ready.  Lightly wet the back of each peice before hanging it up to saturate with the paint roller.
Get a plastic paint tray so you can work with about 2 quarts at a time.
LOTS OF LATEX GLOVES

Next: on the outside of the cabin taper grind to remove any crack between the cabin and the new plug.  You want a 100% joint and lay in alternating layers of mat and roving.  After everything is cured begin sanding the outside.  I DID NOT do any grinding of the peice between the windows as I will use this for a level reference when I start finish sanding.
I also plan to fabricate oak sleeves for the new portlites to mount into this way I'm not just squeezing on insulation but solid wood.  My cabin walls are almost 2 inches thick but the portlite will be only 1 layer of 3/4" where the light sets and additional layers around the window to bring it to finish thickness.  I'm using oak because that's what my interior is.  It's solid, strong and takes resin well.

Hope this is helpful.  If you have any questions please contact me directly through my blog.  I'm not finished with mine so I don't have a full set of pictures yet.

I had removed the tie piece so I could slide 4/8 sheets of plywood inside the boat.

The tape edge you can see here is actually on the inside of the cabin

You can see the edge and shadow of the 3 inch wide mat tape I cut to cover the seam.