Fwd Compartment and cabinets

A few weeks ago I set my mind on starting at the bow and completing one compartment at a time.  For years I had been jumping around; starting this project and that and never really completing any project completely.  Naturally the bow would be first.
Typically the tiny, V shaped forward compartment is set up and called the V-Berth.  It is an ok place to sleep in port or an anchor but not so good for sleeping while at sea.  Also, many sailors, leave many of their sail at home or in a storage lock because they have no place to store them.  Since I only plan on cruising with a maximum of four people I decided to change the V-Berth into sail locker, chain locker, overhead storage lockers.
Several months ago I had completely torn out what was originally installed by the first owner of the boat.

After completely sanding all the surfaces I glued insulation to the hull walls and the overhead.  (now it is just plywood)  Through that hole in the front is the pointy end of the boat.

The overhead is insulated and paneled.  The Port and Starboard cabinet frames are made and fitted.

The cabinet frames with the oak face attached.  The read light is Red LED lighting.  Red is used for night sailing so you do not lose night vision.  White for day ... Red for night.  The cabinet frames are not ready for paint and I can start making the doors to fit into the frames.

My little April is not much help on the boat but she sure is a little cutey and always is glad when my work is done and we can curl up and watch a movie or go for a walk.

The first of 6 doors to be made.  The pieces are cut to size on the table saw.

Besides a standard table saw this is radial arm saw set up to cut mortise and tenon on the frame and door pieces.

Another picture using the radial arm saw to make cabinet pieces a few months ago.

Fitting and attaching the cabinet faces using wood biscuits and glue.  Once fitted I'll paint the cabinets.

Port side cabinet installed and 2 of the doors set in place.  Not hinged yet.  The LED light strips are installed.  Wow, they sure make a lot of light.  Next week I'll start on the Starboard side paneling and cabinet.  The Forward compartment should be almost finished by the end of next week.

V-berth Cabinets (actually, sail storage)

Each rail has to be cut with a mortise or tenon

Doors are glue and clamped

The frames are ready for paint, then installed

Installed but no door yet.  Each compartment on the boat has both red LED & white LED

Here the red is light

Mast Steps

I form all the pieces on the blue bender just beside the step, then TIG weld them together and add to mounting tabs.

Well there :-) only 20 more to make.

Picture sequence of installing Newfound Metal Portlights

Enlarging the shaft tube

Ya know ... since I'm already on the hard doing a major upkeep including many major modifications I may as well do one more.  After talking with my prop guy at Proper Pitch Marine Props  http://www.properpitch.com/home.asp  I've decided to go with a 3 blade prop and increase the shaft size from 1 inch to 1-1/8 inch.  This means I have to also increase the cutlass bearing  http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/  and the shaft tube.  I'll make the shaft tube myself.  Hmmmm .... let's see what do I have that's almost the same size as the new shaft that I can use for a template???

How about a fluorescent light tube???  It's just a few 1000ths too small.  I can sand out that much and custom fit the cutlass bearing.

,So, you wrap PVA on the light tube, roll on a couple layers of glass mat along with a layer of peel ply and lay it in the sun to cure.  Then you smash it in the dumpster and dissolve out the glass and PVA with water.   ...  Next step ...

Two layers of 17 oz biaxial and 2 layers of 2 oz mat then spin it in the lathe to make it true, vacuum bagging every lay up, and do it again ... and again ... and again until the tube is 1/2 inch thick.

Then you get really brave and bore a big hole in the back of the boat.  There's no turning back now ! ! ! !

I welded up a special boring bit so the hole would stay straight.

An hour or so later, I've cored through 8 inches of glass and the new tube fits perfectly.

After taking careful measurements, I only get one shot at this, I mix up thickened resin and slide the new shaft tube in place.  Now to sand off some barrier coat and fair it 

All faired out and painted with Micron 66 bottom paint.  The 3-blade prop will turn farther away from the hull as original design so it won't be a shielded by the hull.  Also, with a 3-blade vs a 2-blade there are always 2 blades un-shielded for propulsion ... especially in reverse.

Wrapping the lead keel

Using my spare 7th boat stand, I lifted the bow, then the stern adjusting the 6 stands accordingly, to raise the boat 6 inches.  Using a 7 inch variable, slow speed grinder on the slowest rpm I ground all the gelcoat off 16 inches above and behind the lead keel, then I surface ground the lead for a good bite with the epoxy.  I used a 20 ton jack to tighten the gap at the forward point and wrapped the point with one layer uni-direction, which held it secure.

Sorry, no pictures of it all sanded out

5 layers of 13 oz unidirectional glass

Edges all sanded out ready for barrier coat and fairing

Finishing the hull part of the rudder modificaiton

So, after cutting a big gaping hole in the bottom of the boat and cutting the rudder in half ... I started rebuilding the tail end of the hull.

Lots of filler inside the trailing edge of the rudder cavity and lots and lots and lots of layers of glass to build up the thickness.  The lower point is over an inch thick.

All faired out and painted barrier Interlux 2000e barrier coat.